Chula Vista Marina February 2008 Newsletter

Rule 9 Violations On the Increase in San Diego Bay
Under Rule 9 of the International and Inland Rules of the Road, all vessels less than 20 meters (66 feet), vessels engaged in fishing, and all sailboats cannot impede the passage of a vessel that can only operate safely in a narrow channel or fairway.

Recent incidents on San Diego Bay include the interference with the departure of a Princess Cruise ship and a U.S. Naval vessel having to go outside the channel and churn up a lot of mud.

BlueSkyNews.com has been asked to remind boaters to be aware of Rule 9 and make sure you don't put yourself or others in jeopardy.

BlueSkyNews.com Fishing Report
- By Jason Coz
For you anglers, it is my pleasure to be asked by BlueSkyNews.com to give you monthly observations of the local San Diego fishing scene.

If you fish a lot, you probably already know things are slow right now because of the Rockfish closure, but things will definitely pick up on March 1st when the closure ends.

We have seen some action recently with Sand Bass and Calicos - and even a few Halibut.

Also, there are some good size schools of Yellowtail (30 - 100) hanging around off La Jolla, but with the cold water and a large supply of live squid, it takes a lot of luck to make a hit there.

So let's all hope for March to hurry up and get here. There should be some terrific Rockfish and Red Snapper fishing then. I'll keep you posted!

Captain Jason Coz is the owner and operator of the 85' M/V Dolphin half-day sportfishing boat operating out of Hyatt Mission Bay Sportfishing (formerly Islandia Sportfishing). Jason has his 100 ton captain's license and runs ½ day fishing trips twice a day, 7 days a week. He can be reached at 619-222-1164 to make reservations or to book private charters. If you have a question for Jason, you can e-mail him at jasoncoz1@msn.com

Between the Sheets - Heave To! What is it and How Do I Use it?
- By Richard Benscoter

Hello Richard,
I enjoyed your article last month on anchoring. I have enjoyed sailing for many years and attempt to read as much as possible to continue the never ending learning process. One topic which I have yet to fully comprehend is how to "heave to". Can you please explain your understanding of when & how to do it?

Sincerely,
Chris Friis - 1961 Hinckley owner at Shelter Cove Marina

Thanks for asking Chris.
"Heave To" in a sail boat allows us to hold a relative position, with the exception of drift, by using the wind against the sails and the rudder to counteract each other. This action slows the boat to a forward progress of 1 to 2 kts.

This technique was and is a commonly used for a "break" while going to weather in a pounding sea; riding out a storm; or by the solo sailor as a way to provide time to go below deck - or just to have lunch.

I personally have used this techniques when we are looking for whales and just want to hold a relative position and have lunch.

It is important to be aware that you need enough sea room because of current drift, and every boat reacts differently in heave to, so you need to practice to see how your boat reacts.

Here is what you do:

Establish an upwind course - sheet in the main sail tight.
Tack the boat, but do not touch anything on your head sail, or jib (I know, this is the unusual part.) It is a good idea unless you have done this before to make the initial tack very slowly - head into the wind until the speed has really come down to 1 or 2 kts before finishing the tack.
When you finish the tack, you're now on a starboard tack, your main has switched sides but your headsail is now in a position you have not seen before: the head sail is set against the wind with its clew to windward instead of leeward as usual, meaning that even though you're now on a starboard tack, the clew is on the starboard side of the boat.
Lastly, turn your steering wheel all the way to windward and lock it. If your boat has a tiller, push the tiller all the way toward your main sail and lash it.
You are now heave to.

When you are ready to resume your sailing:

Unlock your wheel or unlash your tiller.
Turn it all the way to the other side (it was locked to starboard, so turn it all the way to port.)
The boat will turn almost to a complete 360° and you will find yourself back on the port tack you were on before the beginning of the maneuver.

This is a very simple maneuver, which every sailor should know for his/her safety and comfort. See you on the water

Editor's Note: Richard Benscoter is a long time avid sailor. He's a member of the Silver Gate Yacht Club and owner of the Mariners Woodshop. If you have a sailing question for Richard, send e-mail to richard@BlueSkyNews.com.

Proper Care For Your Sails While Sailing
- By Brad Poulos
Last month I provided recommendations for how to prepare your boat and rigging before you put sails on board. This month I offer these tips for the proper treatment of your sails when sailing:

Be sure the hardware on your boat is entirely compatible with your sails. For example: The clew of the mainsail should not ride above the boom so high that an excessive load is put on the last slide or the bolt rope.
Don't use your sails in excessive wind. Check with your sailmaker for the wind-range appropriate to your particular sails. Mark it on the sail bag and in your ship's logbook.
Don't luff or flog your sails unnecessarily, or motor with your sails up.
Shorten sail as soon as conditions demand it. Don't luff your mainsail when a reef is needed. Don't carry a jib that is overburdening the boat — change down to a smaller jib.
Don't allow running backstays or unused halyards to slap against the sails. Be sure running backstays have all their cotter pins and sharp edges taped or covered in leather.
Don't over hoist sails. A vertical wrinkle along the luff while sailing is a good indication that too much tension has been applied. You should normally use just enough luff tension to eliminate horizontal wrinkles in the sail.
The same thing applies to the main outhaul. Tighten the outhaul only enough to eliminate vertical wrinkles in the sail.
Don't over-tighten leech cords. Tighten them just enough to remove the leech flutter, and note that as the sail is trimmed harder, the leech cord should be eased.
It is critical that headsail sheet fairleads be located in the proper fore and aft position in order to avoid straining either the leech or the foot of the sail.
With overlapping headsails, it is possible to trim the sails so hard that they come into contact with the spreader tip. This should be watched carefully, particularly on a puffy day. If you sheet the sail to one inch off the top spreader in heavy air, and the wind dies, the sail will push up against the spreader tip. Therefore, have the trimmer play the sheet in puffy conditions.
When tacking, be sure to cast off the leeward sheet early enough to keep the leech from hanging up on the spreader during the tack.
Never use laminate sails (Mylar or Mylar/Kevlar) without first applying both spreader and stanchion patches as supplied by your sailmaker.
Before furling or flaking the main, ease the outhaul so that the foot of the sail is not under tension - there is no need to stretch it out. If you have a roller furling jib, ease the halyard at the end of the day to prevent the luff from stretching out of shape.

Taking these steps will ensure and extend the life and strength of your sails. Next month I'll provide care and maintenance tips. Smooth Sailing!

Brad Poulos is the General Manager at UK Sails and holds a US Coast Guard 50-ton masters license. Brad is also an ASA certified sailing instructor. If you have a question regarding the use or care of sails, send an e-mail to brad@uksocal.com.