Seaforth January 2008 Newsletter
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January 2008 - Marina E-Newsletter
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Seaforth Marina
1677 Quivira Road
San Diego, CA 92109

Office Hours:
9:00 am - 4:30 pm

Tel: 619-224-6807

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Phone:

619-224-0283


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PC Tip of the Month
Since you're reading this, you obviously have e-mail - which means you've probably also seen the recent spate of animated greeting cards your friends have been sending you. Dancing elves and santas, flying reindeers, etc.

Well, even if you're not into that sort of thing, you owe it to yourself to check out www.jibjab.com.







Be prepared for quite a few belly laughs, and don't be surprised if you find yourself creating a custom greeting of your own.
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From Your Marina Team
Seaforth Marina Office ImageWelcome to the January 2008 e-mail newsletter, and a happy and prosperous new year to you all.

Things were quiet and peaceful around the marina during the holidays, so there's not much excitement to report.

A lot of people are planning to check out the San Diego Boat Show - It's Thursday through Friday, January 3rd - January 6th, at the Marriott Marina and the San Diego Convention Center so I might see you there.

Time For Some Preventative Maintenance?
Now that we are in the slow season for boating and fishing, you might take advantage of the down time to hit some of those maintenance items you've been putting off.

Here's a checklist courtesy of Gerry Charest at Marina Village to get you thinking about the multitude of tasks that you or your mechanic can get started on:

  • Check the engine shaft and rudder stuffing boxes for leaks and looseness.

  • Inspect fuel lines, including fill and vent hoses, for indication of softness, brittleness or cracking.

  • Wipe flexible hoses with a clean cloth. A strong odor of gasoline or diesel indicates a hose should be replaced, but only with a Coast Guard approved type for fuel.

  • Inspect all other components in the fuel system - fuel tanks, fuel pumps, filters, for leaks. A dry rag can be used at connections and you can also trust your nose. Hose clamps should be snug and free of heavy rust.

  • Wire brush battery terminals and fill any low cells with distilled water.

  • Exhaust manifolds should be removed every few years and inspected for corrosion, which could restrict water flow.

  • Cooling hoses should also be inspected for signs of old age, check for stiffness, rot, leaks, and/or cracking. Replace as necessary.

  • Inspect bilge blower hose for leaks.

  • Clean and tighten electrical connections, especially both ends of battery cables.

Thanks for the checklist Gerry - there are many more maintenance tasks that should be performed on a recurring basis. Some are simple and others are more complex and require special tools or equipment. Your own knowledge and skill level should dictate whether or not you are comfortable performing a particular maintenance item. If in doubt, call a certified marine mechanic.

H & S Yacht Sales




That's It For Now
Again, a happy new year to all - I look forward to a great 2008 boating year, and I look forward to seeing you all around the docks.

Bob Buckman and John Rue
Seaforth Marina

e-Letters to the Editor
Dear BlueSkyNews.com.
My boat carries 200 gallons of diesel, and I am amazed at the price for fuel these days.

I think you would be doing a Great service to boaters if you could start up something like "Gas Buddy" has on the internet, only let boaters know what fuel was selling for at the various fuel docks. This would not only benefit boaters, but might motivate some of the fuel docks to become more competitive if they see what other docks are selling their fuel for. I would like to hear your opinion on this.

Regards,
Wayne from Chula Vista

Dear Wayne
Unlike auto gas stations, the "price is not necessarily the price" at fuel docks. Special discounts are made based on how many gallons you take on board during a specific fill-up, and additional discounts can be had for boaters who establish and regularly use an established account with the fuel dock. Our best advice is to contact fuel docks in your area when you're ready for a fill-up; tell them the estimated number of gallons, and ask what the price would be. Visit our Marine Services web page for a complete listing of San Diego area fuel docks.

Best of luck,
BlueSkyNews

Proper Care For Your Sails Starts With Your Boat
- By Brad Poulos
s sailors, we are acutely aware of the cost of sails as part of the total investment in owning and operating a sailboat. Experience has also shown that the treatment of new sails after they are delivered can greatly extend or shorten their useful life.

Naturally, one of the main determinants of a sail's life span is the quality of the materials used and the workmanship of the sailmaker. Regarding proper treatment of sails to promote a long useful life, there are many steps that can and should be taken. These can be divided these into three main areas:

  • Preparation of the boat and rig
  • Proper treatment of the sails on board
  • Care and maintenance.

In this article we will look at how to prepare your boat and the rigging:
--Tape all cotter pins, sharp corners and other points that can tear or chafe sails. Give particular attention to the pulpit area. Make sure you tape off the turnbuckles where the lifelines attach.

  • Place boots or tubes over turnbuckles, both to prevent chafe and to keep grease and oil off sails.

  • Be sure the lifelines are clean and free of meat hooks. Give particular attention to the stanchion tops. Acetone is a good cleaner for vinyl-coated lifelines.

  • Install rollers or padded boots on spreader tips.

  • Be sure wire halyards have no meat hooks or open wire on the shackles which might chafe or snag the sails.

  • Position guards to close off any "V's" in the rigging that may catch the sails when they are being hoisted or lowered.

  • Wash the deck before each weekend of sailing, and polish the spars periodically so that sails don't pick up any of the aluminum oxidation.

  • Dry out your sails before leaving them on the boat for any period of time. One way of doing this is to simply spread the sails around the main cabin and forepeak so that the air can circulate and dry them between outings.

  • Avoid the practice of drying sails by hoisting them to flog in the breeze.

  • Finally, minimize exposure to direct sunlight when drying your sails.

Taking these steps will ensure and extend the life and strength of your sails allowing you to get the most out of them in terms of speed and appearance. Happy sailing! Next month I'll review how to properly treat your sails while on board.

Brad Poulos is the General Manager at UK Sails and holds a US Coast Guard 50-ton masters license. Brad is also an ASA certified sailing instructor. If you have a question regarding the use or care of sails, send an e-mail to brad@uksocal.com.

Nautical Trivia - How Deep Is Your Love... or Wide?
All sailors know that one fathom equals six feet, but did you know that a fathom was once defined by an act of Parliament as "the length of a man's arms around the object of his affections." The word originally came from the Old English Faethm, which means "embracing arms." Remembering that the circumference of a circle is pi times the diameter, that means the average female waistline then was around 22 inches.

Sea Coast Realty

Perfect Fishing Storm Headed to
San Diego?
If you like to fish and you haven't already done it, you should become familiar California's Marine Life Protection Act. This environmental legislation is working its way down the coast from Sacramento, and is heading full steam for San Diego waters.

We'll be talking much more in future newsletters about this issue which could dramatically affect both sportfishing and recreational fishing in San Diego, including establishing many "no take" zones in traditional fishing grounds. In the meantime, to bring yourself up on both sides of the issue we suggest any local fishing enthusiasts take a look at the act itself by clicking on the link above, and then visit the Sportfishing Association of California's web site to see what this could mean to you. For a real eye full, Google the words "Marine Life Protection Act".

The watchword is "stay engaged" because if you snooze; you will lose the chance for a balanced solution!






Between the Sheets - Anchoring - It's Not Voodoo!
- By Richard Benscoter
My lovely second mate and some friends of ours were anchored in Mission Bay's Mariners Cove on a sunny afternoon when we noticed an unoccupied 18 foot runabout slowly drifting our way.

With a boat hook and some lines, we got this beautiful new stray boat tied up along side. We saw a couple on the beach frantically waving their arms, so I went ashore and brought the grateful owners out to reclaim their boat.

Anchoring is not automatic but can be made to seem so if you execute a few key points. First I will tell you the most important thing is to brief your second mate on the what, when, where, and yes, the why. This will make this task a no brainier!

The What - is the preparation on the boat for anchoring, i.e., anchor ready, ensure it is the proper size and weight for your boat, anchor rode is properly sized for the boat, and of proper length. It would also be helpful if you had pre-marked your rode in increments of 10 feet with those colorful tabs you can buy at your local marine store. If your boat is large, you will find that a portable two-way radio between the captain and the first mate can be a lifesaver (or a marriage saver) when anchoring.

The When - is the process - i.e., head the boat into the wind and when all forward movement is stopped lower the anchor. Don't throw or drop it, as the rode could become tangled. Let the wind push the boat backward as the anchor rode is paid out to the proper length. Secure the rode to the boat and set the anchor by back winding a sail, or by using the motor to gently back down.

The Where - is the location in the anchorage. Remember, in anchorages the first boat has priority. Don't anchor where the swing of your boat on the tide and wind changes will swing you into another boat. Also insure you don't lower your anchor where it or your rode will cross another boat's rode.

The Why - is the most important. Since most of us have not been to mars and cannot read minds you need to sit down with your crew and brief your plan. Discuss every aspect of what you expect to happen, and what to do when the expected does not happen, like the anchor does not set. Let them know how much rode you will let out for the given tide and conditions. Brief everyone on what your reaction will be to a given situation. This last step is the most important to make anchoring an easy and enjoyable part of your boating experience.

Lastly how much rode should you let out? This is the captain's call, but here are some rules of thumb. The length of rode you let out is called scope, and the following are ratios to the highest tide you will experience during your time at anchor.

  • Anchored for lunch in calm conditions - use a scope of 4 to 1
  • Normal and overnight conditions - use a scope of 7 to 1
  • In storm conditions - use a scope of 10 to 1

Happy New Year and Happy Sailing!

Editor's Note: Richard Benscoter is a long time avid sailor. He's a member of the Silver Gate Yacht Club and owner of the Mariners Woodshop. If you have a sailing question for Richard, send e-mail to richard@BlueSkyNews.com.

Coast Guard Auxiliary Tip of the Month
Why You Shouldn't Use Automotive Engine Parts On Your Gas Boat
You no doubt have noticed the big difference in the cost of "marine engine parts" as opposed to "automotive parts". You may have also thought that since the engines are the same; why not?

Well the answer is, there is a huge difference! The main difference is that autos are designed so that the engine is sitting over the ground, so if there is an occasional little drip of gas it just falls on the ground and evaporates. Boats, on the other hand, have enclosed bilges so those little drops of gas may evaporate, but they leave a residue of vapors that can become a very powerful ticking time bomb just waiting for an ignition source.

Here are some other major differences:

  • Marine alternators have contacts that are not exposed.
  • Marine distributors have ignition protection and flame arrestors.
  • Marine starters and generators are completely sealed.
  • Marine starter solenoids do not have the vent that auto solenoids do.
  • Marine carburetors vent any overflow back to the carburetor throat so the engine burns it vs. venting it to the outside as all automotive carburetors do.
  • Marine fuel pumps will not allow fuel out of the diaphragm area if there is a leak vs. into a vent hole to the outside as automotive fuel pumps do.

These requirements are enumerated in the U.S. Coast Guard Boating Safety Circular if you would like to learn more, or, ask your Vessel Examiner about it during your next Vessel Safety Check which can be obtained by emailing me or calling me at
619-294-4137.

See you next time; safe boating and a Happy New Year!

Bob Simons ImageBob Simons has been in the Coast Guard Auxiliary for thirty years and owns a small sailboat as well as a small powerboat. He teaches classes in Boating Safety & Seamanship as well as Basic and Advanced Coastal Navigation. Bob is also the co-owner of Seabreeze Books and Charts in Point Loma.

P.S. - The Coast Guard Auxiliary still has a few seats open for the Basic and Advanced Navigation Class on Monday January 7th and would like to offer it to anyone who might be interested. Give me a call at 619-294-4137 or email me to see if we can fit you into this important class.

BlueSkyNews.com Desktop Photo of the Month
O.K. - We know this has absolutely nothing to do with boating, but even we boaters yearn to drive up to the mountains and touch the snow at this time of year. (But then we want to come back down to the water and sun after we get that out of our system!)

Here's one of those perfect ski days at Mammoth Mountain looking down over deserted slopes to the magnificent valley below.

Click here for easy to follow instructions to download this or one of many other fantastic high resolution free desktop photos.


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